Meredith Ashton
Culinary Tourism
Reading Response
20 October 2016
Is This Title Authentic?
Dean
MacCannell analyzes the tourist experience, stating “touristic consciousness is
motivated by its desire for authentic experiences.” The work Culinary Tourism by Lucy Long expands
upon this statement, analyzing culinary tourism as an exercise motivated by the
human curiosity to experience “the other” as an escape from the mundane. This
experience can be set on Lucy’s continuum of the exotic to the familiar, as the
degree of desired “authenticity” is
individual-specific. The issue is additionally muddled by the fact that the
very idea of the “authentic” is socially constructed, holding differing
meanings in varied cultural contexts. Due to the individual-specific nature of
the culinary tourism critique, I decided to turn inwards to reflect on my
experience with authentic (or perhaps, more accurately, inauthentic) tourism.
One of my
first experiences with “other” cultural cuisine was in Disney World: the
quintessential icon of “Americanness.” I remember walking around the World
Showcase in Disney’s EPCOT theme park, icy cold gelato sticking to my throat in
Italy and a Mexican candy skull so sugary my eight-year-old self spit it back
out. Who knew that something could have too
much sugar? It was fabulous and exotic and exhilaratingly different. My
young “tourist’s gaze” was adept at discovering all of the exciting differences
between “here and there.” In the matter of a an hour or two I had walked
through eleven countries, heard men in plaid kilts blare their bagpipes, watched
a belly dancer shake her hips in the din of a Moroccan restaurant, and found no
fewer than three gruesome trolls on the Maelstrom ride in Norway.
I was practically a world
traveler. It was only the occasional Mickey Mouse-shaped ice cream bar and the surprise
spotting of Beauty and the Beast on the cobbled streets of France that reminded
me I was still very much in good ol’ America. Disney created a user-friendly
type of culinary tourism for its guests, where young American families could
experience “the other” as a type of elaborate theatrical imitation, and still have
the option of an “American Hot Dog and French Fries” in the conveniently
located American Pavilion in the center of the Showcase.
Don’t get me wrong. I freaking
love Disney World—some of my fondest childhood memories include consuming fistfuls
of colorful Goofy Sour gummy worms with my sister under the backdrop of
Cinderella’s Castle. I’ve simply become more aware over the years that Disney’s
theme-park-packaged experience falls very far towards the familiar end of the
culinary tourism spectrum. While I still enjoy walking the streets of the World
Showcase with my family, I now do so with the understanding that it is more of
a “show of the world” than an authentic showcase, which is tailored to a very
tourist-specific lens. EPCOT presents an experience authentic to Disney World,
but not necessarily of the different cultural others that it performs for its
guests.
Fascinating analysis, Meredith. Let's talk more about this in class!
ReplyDeleteMeredith, I like how you described your experience with “other” cultural cuisines at Disney World. I would never have thought that Disney World could be a place where someone could experience other cultures, but now that you mention it I can see that Disney is a place where many worlds collide. I hope you speak more about this in class.
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